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Category: Scotland

Ben Nevis Race

Ben Nevis Race

It rained during the night and in the morning so I stayed in my tent [in the Glen Nevis campground] until 10. It was clearing with occasional sunny spells so started the ascent of Ben Nevis at 11.15. Felt quite fit, great to walk without the burden of my pack.

Of course I wasn’t the only one heading up. A lot of army and Rescue Association people taking stretchers up. Didn’t know why until later.

It was completely misted over at the top [at 1,345m the highest mountain in the British Isles] and very cold, around zero degrees. Braved a few snow flurries while eating. Had taken 2 and a half hours.

Twenty minutes down I saw this huge group of people approaching. Turned out to be runners, this was the day of the annual ‘Ben Nevis Race’. The leaders were incredibly fit running up the scree slope. I had to get out of the way of most.

Ben Nevis Race, 6 September 1986, Scotland

Couldn’t believe it when the leader came hurtling down shortly after. [The winner that year finished in 1.25.48 – the second fastest time on record dating back to 1951].

Ben Nevis Race, 6 September 1986, Scotland

According to the race records from the Ben Nevis Race website http://www.bennevisrace.co.uk/?page_id=11 number 247 was Albert Sunter from the Horwich RMI Harriers Club who finished in 60th place in 1.43.06.

The steepness and loose rocks made it very dangerous – saw some falls and some guys covered in blood. Took a few photos of it all.

Ben Nevis Race, 6 September 1986, Scotland

If you look closely you can see the runners coming down the muddy ridge-line.

Inspired, I came down pretty quickly.

Oban, Scotland

Oban, Scotland

Oban, Scotland. 4 September 1986

Left [Inverary] at 10 heading down Loch Fyne instead of the more direct route to Oban. Picked up by an old fisherman “London Bill” whose been driving to Scotland for 40 years. Non-stop for 14 hours, in the old days with bad roads it took him 24 hours (he maintains a steady 40mph). Not many fish around these days apparently but he still comes up yearly. Dropped me at the Oban turn-off.

A lorry driver took me 10 miles. He didn’t like the look of my pack’s weight. Funnily enough I sprained a back muscle heaving it into the cab. Wasn’t gonna tell him that tho’.

Then a terrible driver Volvo-ed me to the outskirts of Oban. Walked through town surprised at how large it was. A ferry terminus for Mull. Watched fishermen unloading prawns. Saw a seal bobbing its head up. To the youth hostel on the seafront for a 2pm opening.

Walked around town. Very windy, grey. Up to McCraig Castle to see ferries dock and depart.

Loch Fyne, Inveraray

Loch Fyne, Inveraray

Swans & cygnets on Loch Fyne, Inveraray, Scotland. 3 September 1986

After 10 minutes [waiting for a lift just outside Glasgow] a Land Rover stopped. A lady and husband who own a converted ferry station on a peninsula opposite Jura. He, into oil – been to PNG several times last year. They gave me a guided tour pointing out castles, peaks, lochs all with names and history – very interesting.

Took me to Inveraray, a one-time fortress town for the clan Campbell, on the shore of Loch Fyne. Visited the 18th C castle, a bit like Disneyland from the exterior, penny-pinching I avoided the interior. Went on a short walk, beautiful forest.

Bought groceries, checked into the Youth Hostel. After dinner out to see the sunset. Beautiful clouds and reflections. This is a bit more like it.

Post Office in the Outer Hebrides

Post Office in the Outer Hebrides

10 September 1986. Seilebost, Isle of Harris, Scotland

I love the weather-beaten exterior, ‘official’ chalk board name, and the security door measure. Next to a remote and lovely beach.

Met a girl from Melbourne, Robyn, [at the Stockinish Youth Hostel] and walked with her across the valley to the other side of the island. A faint sheep’s trail to follow over boggy ground. The beach and sand-dunes [at Seilebost] were remarkably similar to Norman Beach at Wilson’s Promontory [Victoria, Australia]. Brilliant turquoise ocean, gulf-stream.

A baker’s truck stopped and we bought lunch. Walked across the estuary flats. Very soft sand, made some sculptures. Carried Robyn across a stream so as to avoid walking a long way round. Managed to hitch back to Stockinish. 

Fisherman on the Isle of Harris

Fisherman on the Isle of Harris

Lobster fishing, Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland. 9 September 1986

Made the Youth Hostel after 10 miles [from Tarbert]. Walked down to the bay. Said hello to a fisherman outside his home. He welcomed me in, gave me a salmon sandwich and a cup of tea. He [I think a Macleod] had been in the merchant navy for 35 years after joining aged 17, and had been to Wellington & Melbourne. Had been fishing for lobster for 10 years. Seemed a bit lonely now that his parents had died.

He wanted to take me out to the point – at first I thought by car – so we clambered into his small boat. I hopelessly tried to keep the boat steady while he lifted up the cray pots. Had a series of three stops – all empty bar one small one that he threw back and several crabs. Showery and windy, very cold. I took a few photos. Later we had a bowl of homemade soup and bread with cottage cheese.