7 September 1985               

Martin next to the Stuart Highway, just out of Three Ways, Northern Territory. Looking north, next stop Renner Springs 135km.

Tenant Creek was my nemesis for hitch-hiking. I’d successfully hitch-hiked from Ararat in western Victoria nearly two months before, covering a distance of approximately 2,500km.

But on Friday the 6th I spent 7 hours on the side of the road at the end of town waiting…waiting for a lift. A few other hitch-hikers were lucky but not me or Martin, another kiwi – from Plimmerton – who I’d met at the Youth Hostel the night before.

We decided to head back into to town & go to the pub. We played pool – doubles – against the Aboriginal ringers (the name for stockmen in the ‘top end’) & other tough locals – for pots of beer. We were a bit delirious from being in the sun all day, happy-go-lucky & we just couldn’t lose! We played ridiculous shots that kept coming off & ended up with a table full of beer & sore heads…

Saturday, the 7th was up at 5.50am & on the road shortly after.

Futile, depressing, frustrating – standing, sitting, thumbing. Martin comes along about 7.30. Very windy again & going to get hot. Went back into town, found out when a bus comes, 10pm. Went back to the Y.H. for breakfast. Back to the spot in an hour at 10.30. Martin gone! Couldn’t believe my luck.

Finally picked up by two guys in a large van as I was reading my book. Briefly drove off the Stuart highway to an aboriginal village where the driver surprised me by speaking their language. He could only take me 25kms to Three Ways where I met up with Martin again.

So we two sat in the sun on the dust, apart from each other at first but as the day wore on we shifted our packs and stayed under the same shade. Hardly any cars and trucks just don’t pick you up. At one stage we were on our knees pleading with drivers who just smiled and waved…

Quite late we went over to the Three Ways Roadhouse. Had some food & drink, played cards. Had a refreshing shower. Waiting for the Ansett bus which got in at 10.20pm and was meant to leave at 11. We pleaded poor to the bus driver – hitching for 2 full days etc. and Martin managed to get a fare to Darwin for $20 (normally 50!) and I to Mataranka for $14.50 instead of 25.

Sunday, the 8th and the bus eventually left at 12am. Had a fitful sleep on the bus, uncomfy and cold. Quite a few grass fires as we neared Mataranka. I woke up just in time for my drop off – I was the only one to get off. 560kms in 6 hours. The youth hostel, homestead and springs were about 9kms away so I decided to walk it to see the sunrise, wildlife and listen to the 100s of bird calls, practically all new. Crossed the beautiful Roper River, very clear, could see fish. White egrets perched above, lush rainforest and palm vegetation.

Hiking to Mataranka Springs at dawn. 8 September, 1985.