UDP Falls, Kakadu

UDP Falls, Kakadu

UDP Falls, Kakadu. 24 November 1985 

At Cooinda I happened to bump into Jude and Cathy who had their own little 4WD loaned from a friend. Couldn’t get to Jim Jim Falls so decided on UDP. Filled up with petrol & water and we left with me squeezed in the back heading south.

A fair hike there. Went out of the national park [the southern part of Kakadu NP only came into effect in 1992] and came across water buffalo wallowing in mud holes. Had to ford a 1ft deep river [probably the South Alligator River]. Took a photo of Jude negotiating it in 4WD.

South Alligator River crossing. 24 November 1985

Followed a rocky escarpment, went past an old uranium mine, signs warning to stay clear. Once at the Uranium Development Propriety (UDP) Falls we joined other people swimming in the large rock pool, disgustingly warm. The falls only a trickle, must look impressive in the wet season.

UDP Falls [now known as Gunlom Falls in Kakadu National Park], 24 November 1985 

We sat, laid down, ate, drank in the campground trying to find shade and keep away from the tiny ants which takeover everything. A storm came our way, strong “knock-em down” wind, lightning, thunder, not much rain. We climbed part way up the waterfall and drank the delicious cool water.

I was delighted to see this waterfall featured in the film “Crocodile Dundee” – known as ‘Echo Lake’ – when I watched it in a crowded cinema in London the next year.

Monday 25 November: A terrible night’s sleep, the ants managed to get into my tent in their 100s and bite me all over. Water buffalo were crashing through the bush close by. At one stage they came within 10ft of my tent munching contentedly on the grass.

Went for a swim. Jude & I climbed to the top of the waterfall. Very pretty, similar to my Jatbula Trail walk. Swam in the pools there.

Once down I spoke to the ranger. The falls’ swimming hole is free of saltwater crocs, he’s only seen three freshies in five years. I promptly went for a swim in deeper water.

Singapore – Chinese new year

Singapore – Chinese new year

Singapore, 10 February 1986

Walked to the city around sunset, taking shots in the twilight at the Raffles statue. Moved on to Chinatown. Walked around the gambling stalls and clothes stalls (50 cents admission each place). Then around the beautifully lit streets, impressive neon pictures of tigers – the Chinese year of the tiger.

Took quite a few shots, once I had finished my print film, using tripod, cable-release for time exposures. Also used my flash for the first time. A lot of walking, back at 11.40.

Oban, Scotland

Oban, Scotland

Oban, Scotland. 4 September 1986

Left [Inverary] at 10 heading down Loch Fyne instead of the more direct route to Oban. Picked up by an old fisherman “London Bill” whose been driving to Scotland for 40 years. Non-stop for 14 hours, in the old days with bad roads it took him 24 hours (he maintains a steady 40mph). Not many fish around these days apparently but he still comes up yearly. Dropped me at the Oban turn-off.

A lorry driver took me 10 miles. He didn’t like the look of my pack’s weight. Funnily enough I sprained a back muscle heaving it into the cab. Wasn’t gonna tell him that tho’.

Then a terrible driver Volvo-ed me to the outskirts of Oban. Walked through town surprised at how large it was. A ferry terminus for Mull. Watched fishermen unloading prawns. Saw a seal bobbing its head up. To the youth hostel on the seafront for a 2pm opening.

Walked around town. Very windy, grey. Up to McCraig Castle to see ferries dock and depart.

Yogi Lodge, Varanasi

Yogi Lodge, Varanasi

Yogi lodge

Yogi Lodge, Varanasi, India. 24 May 1986

No sleep again. There are some nightly rituals that have probably been in force for centuries. One is the ringing of a bell at a shrine very close by; another performed by a ghost – for two nights I’ve been woken by the tapping of a (no doubt) large cane stick and the blowing of a whistle. It comes right up to the lodge – no voices.

A  chowkidar I believe or night watchmen.  Essentially the equivalent of “12am and all is well”.